Mehr Dresden

I wonder how obvious my accent is. I just ordered a beer (in correct German, I might add) and the bartender told me the price in English. The place I'm staying is aggressively bilingual -- everything is in both German and English -- and that might have something to do with it. Perhaps they assume that it's easier for me? (To be fair, I asked the guy last night a question in English before I ordered. "Vom Fass" means "on tap," btw.)

It was beautiful out today, sunny and bright. I even retook some pictures, as the coloring will turn out better. I even managed to get a photo of me smiling! Miracles, I'll tell ya!

After a lovely breakfast of muesli and yogurt, I managed to miss when the Frauenkirche was open...again. I found a shopping area nearby to wait it out, including a store that was a small Weihnachtsmarkt. These are reportedly amazing, and Dresden has a huge Markt every year. I assume that this particular retailer is well ensconced in that activity.

(Side note: It's now well past eight and there's basically no one at the bar, not even the old men who made their appearance last night. Guess everyone goes somewhere else on Friday night. I mean, really, they're training a guy tonight...)

Cavernous

I visited the Festung Dresden. It is a small guided tour of some of the early fortifications of the city, which started out as a walled town in the 13th or 14th century. These fortifications are currently located under the Brühler Terrace. That means it's a bit creepy down there, dark and small in a few places (and we know how I feel about small places). It was still pretty neat, though. The fortifications are impressive, especially when you realize how intricate and nuanced they are and think about the work that went into creating them. I am afraid that I ordered the spoken electronic tour in English instead of German, but it was a good plan, since there were a number of technical terms I never would've understood in German.

I finally got to see the inside of the Frauenkirche. For some reason, the statue of Martin Luther out in front didn't clue me in to the fact that it's a Lutheran church and not Catholic. Silly me. It was still absolutely amazing. I'd seen photos and video (most notably the "Dresden" mini-series), but it was still amazing. Completely on par with the large Catholic Cathedrals, Stations of the Cross or no. They held a prayer and devotion while I was there. I also lit a candle for my grandmother, who is recovering from open heart surgery. (I've never seen the candle aspect at a Lutheran church, but figured I'd go for it -- my family is Lutheran, after all, not Catholic.)

Stadtmuseum

The other place I visited today is the Stadtmuseum. It has a number of exhibits at the moment, including their permanent collection of artifacts that trace the last 800 years of Dresden's history. The museum is quite lovely, located in another of the gorgeous not-really-historical buildings that were (re)built after 1945. Unlike some of the other buildings, however, it appears to have been built on its own in an historical style and not actually rebuilt. The 800-year exhibit, however, really got me thinking about things on my mind since I arrived here.

I have been developing questions about the (official) production and reproduction of memory in Dresden. This city interests me as a possible fieldsite because of its history -- a longtime cultural center (and capital of Saxony), which was destroyed in the last months of World War II, rebuilt under the socialist DDR, and then re-rebuilt under a reunified German state. I have seen all of these things reflected in public memorials -- museums, monuments, the contents of the city's website. However, the bombing appears to be the most starkly present. It is listed in every chronology, with talk of rebuilding (recovery). The DDR and reunification are only occasionally mentioned, which interests me a great amount.  Basically, the portions of Dresden's history that most interest me are those through which my informants will have lived. However, the official line on that time period seems to be focused on bombing and rebuilding the city to its former splendor. Part of this happened during the DDR years and some was not until reunification. However, the political aspects of rebuilding and the changes that were seen in those politics with Reunification are not much discussed in official representations. DDR memorabilia can be found in the occasional giftshop and there are markers for 1989-1990 protests at various points in the city. However, the Stadtmuseum had little mention of either period (Reunification was barely mentioned, rather presented as a known fact). This, interestingly, was the same with the Nazi period -- they were mentioned, but the focus was on the war much more so than the politics.

Why, then, is this erasure/blurring of the past seen here? Why are some portions focused upon and others not? What is the significance of this? Will I find it in other places? Also, is this sort of official line shared by the populace? How do past and present play out, both in this official memorialization and in how individuals themselves remember? (Then, connecting memory with my medically-based research, how is this reflected in the experiences and narratives of individuals with chronic pain disorders?)

For those of you who don't care, pardon my anthropological aside. However, it *is* the official purpose of this trip. :)

(Interestingly, I learned of the DDR Museum only after it was basically too late to see it. It's not listed on the city's museum page. Interesting. I would've loved to see it, though!)

Vegetarianer Dönner

In other news, I finally tried a (vegetarian) Dönnerkebap for dinner. It's fast food, based in that of the large number (9% or so) of Germans who are a of Turkish descent. I picked it up at a stand on the way home. The thing was *huge* and I couldn't finish it. Lots of veg on some bread. Not bad!

Tomorrow, an Herbstfest (autumn festival) that starts with a Brotmarkt (bread market), then off to Leipzig!